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A few years ago I was taught something that has changed my yarny life for the better—how to use Microsoft Excel with knitting patterns. Since learning a few basics of Excel and incorporating them into pattern writing and tech editing I've been able to significantly decrease the time it takes me to write and check patterns.
Would you like to learn?
I'd like to show you. Let's begin writing a pattern together, shall we?
To keep this post Excel-oriented, let's start with a completed schematic. I do not often use Excel to get the measurements on the schematic, because people are not mathmatically proportionate, and the measurements don't often change in equal proportions between each size.
Open up an Excel spreadsheet, and let's begin!
At the top of the spreadsheet, I always put the gauge. Row 1 is the stitch gauge and row 2 is the row gauge for the most promenant stitch pattern. By being consistent with putting the gauges here, when I need to refer to the stitch gauge, I know I can simply reference rows 1 or 2, rather than scrolling to the top of the page to click on it.
Our gauge for this pattern, measured from a swatch, is 20 stiches and 32 rows over 4". To enter that information into the pattern I click on the box for A1, then enter =20/4 for the stitch gauge. Then in box A2 enter =32/4 for the row gauge.
By beginning the formula with an = symbol, you're telling Excel that it needs to mathmatically figure out whatever you're putting after it.
Each column will be a different garment size, so we need to have the gauge formula in each column. To do this, highlight both A1 and A2 together, then place the cursor at the lower right corner of the highlighted boxes. You should see a black cross appear.
When you see the black cross, click and hold down, then drag the cursor to the right for as many columns as needed—unclick. This repeats the formula across the row.
Then label each row in the following right-hand column.
Next, fill in all the measurements from the schematic.
Next we'll figure out how many stitches to cast on for the back. Label a row for cast on stitches, then on the following row create a highlighted row for the actual lower edge measurement.
In the left-most column, enter a formula that multiplies the lower edge schematic measurement by the stitch gauge.
Deselect that box, then reselect it and move the cursor to the lower-right corner until the black cross appears. Click and drag to the right to fill in the formula for each size.
We now have the exact number of stitches needed to get the our estimated lower edge measurement. However, they're not whole numbers, and we'll be working a k2 p2 rib along the lower edge, so we need to be sure there we cast on a multiple of 4 stitches + 2.
For now, ignore the highlighted row. Below it, label a row indicating a multiple of 4 stitches + 2. Then in the A column, enter (the cast on stitch count - 2) / 4.
Just like in algebra, Excel uses ( ) to separate parts of the formula. So, any formula used in algebra or geometry can be used in Excel.
Drag the formula across for each size.
This number needs to be a whole number in order for the multiple of 4 stitches + 2 to be accurate. Adjust the cast on number to the whole nearest number that will make the number on the *multiple of 4 sts + 2?* row into a whole number.
Next, we'll get the actual lower edge measurement in the highlighted row.
In column A, enter the formula that divides the cast on number by the stitch gauge.
Drag the formula across the row. We will continue doing this throughout the pattern. In order to simplify this tutorial, from this point on, when I referrence entering a formula into a row, enter it into column A, then drag the forumla across the row.
Next, fill in how long the k2 p2 ribbing will be worked for, then fill in the row descriptions for working the waist shaping.
The first bits of waist shaping information that I fill in are the lengths—where the waist increases begin and how long the body is to the armhole.
I also have a general idea in mind of how much space I'd like to have between the last decrease row and the first increase row. That will be shown on row 45, marked as "difference".
I've decided I'd like 5 stitches decreased at each edge, so the decrease row will be worked 5 times. I fill this into excel by stating the first row, which will be a RS row, on row 36 (dec 2 sts). Then the decrease row will be worked another 4 more times.
Not all patterns have the same number of stitches decreased for all sizes. This one does, but if your pattern doesn't, just fill in the desired number of stitches for each size.
To decide how many rows to work even between each decrease row I'll first enter in a few formulas.
The SUM formula will add a each row in a column from the first row listed to the next row listed. This saves time from having to click on each row. We'll be adding together how many rows are used for the waist decreasing.
Then enter the formula to get the total measurement to here: = (waist decrease rows / row gauge) + meas worked in k2 p2 ribbing.
Next go to the "difference" row and enter the formula to subtract the "meas to here" from the measurement to the beginning of the waist increases.
Now we're ready to begin figuring out how many rows to work between each decrease row. Let's first try putting 7 rows between each decrease row. On the E_R line enter the formula to multiply the "_ times" by 7. When you press enter, you'll see that the "difference" has now changed. Keep adjusting the E_R number, keeping it an odd number until you have your ideal "difference"—which is the measurement between the last decrease row and the first increase row.
I want about 3" to be worked even between the decreases and increases, so there will be 11 rows worked even between each decrease row.
For this pattern 11 rows can be worked for all sizes, however if there is a different number of stitches decreased for each size, you will probably need to work a different number of rows between each decrease row for each size as well.
I'll always include a stitch count after each shaping section is complete. To figure this out, I'll enter the formula to subtract 2 stitches for each decrease row from the original cast on.
= cast on - (2*(dec 2 sts + _ times))
The waist increases can be figured out the same way as for the waist decreases. However in our pattern, to get close to the schematic bust measurement, only one stitch needs to be increased.
So, we've made it up to the armhole shaping. I'll be making another post soon walking through shaping the armholes, neck and shoulders.
If you'd like to see the actual Excel sheet, you can download it here to help you learn.
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